The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves within the Surf Zone.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CALIF
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Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. Probability density functions were computed and compared to Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. The Gram-Charlier distribution qualitatively gave the better fit to the data. Modified author abstract
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography