Synoptic Surf Zone Sedimentation Patterns.
Final rept. 1 Jan-31 Dec 72,
UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES DEPT OF GEOLOGICAL SCIENCES
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A series of four optical arrays were installed in the surf zone near Hueneme, California for a period of 10 days to record the changes in bottom elevation, variations in suspended sand concentration versus height above the substrate, wave data and other environmental factors continuously with time. These records enabled analysis of variations in surf zone transport and the comparison of these frequencies with the incoming wave spectrum. It is evident from this experiment that the sediment transport system is sensitive to frequencies down to at least 1 or 2 cycles per second and up to the long tidal frequencies at the far end of the wave spectrum. There are also responses typical of particular sections of the surf zone. These variations occur in the changes in substrate level and in the concentrations of suspended sand. Modified author abstract
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Geology, Geochemistry and Mineralogy