Detailed Analysis of Short-Term Variations in Beach Morphology (and Concurrent Dynamic Processes) for Summer and Winter Periods, 1971-1972, Plum Island, Massachusetts.
MASSACHUSETTS UNIV AMHERST COASTAL RESEARCH CENTER
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An analysis of the relationship between wave and meteorological variables and beach morphology was undertaken during summer and winter periods, 1971 and 1972, on Plum Island, Massachusetts. Fifteen variables were measured or computed bihourly, twenty-four hours per day, throughout both study periods. These variables were wave period, wave height, breaker type, breaker angle, longshore current velocity, wave steepness, breaker power, wind speed and direction, barometric pressure, air and water temperature, and ground-water elevation. Daily topographic maps of the intertidal zone were constructed for twelve beach profiles spaced at 60-m intervals. Differences in beach morphology within a small area appear to reflect the stage of recovery of the beach profiles following a storm. Author Modified Abstract
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography