Onshore-Offshore Sand Transport on Del Monte Beach, California.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CALIF
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Daily sand volume transport values were calculated for a selected beach profile during a two-month period. Wave data were recorded continuously directed seaward of the profile. Tide effects were largely filtered out by use of a lunar day 24.8 hour sampling interval. Offshore sand transport occurred in isolated events of one to two-day duration, and had a maximum value of 132.5 cubic feetfoot of beach widthlunar day. Onshore transport occurred over longer intervals of up to seven days, and had a maximum value of 47.0 cubic feetfootday. Onshore-offshore transport over a 24.8 hour period depends, to a first approximation, on the mean wave steepness incident upon the beach and the initial beach slope for the period. If the initial beach slope is greater less than the equilibrium slope associated with the existing wave conditions, or if the profile is initially at equilibrium and the wave steepness increases decreases, sand will be moved offshore onshore. The closer to equilibrium the beach is, the smaller the transports are. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography