Longshore Currents and Wave Statistics in the Surf Zone.
TETRA TECH INC PASADENA CALIF
Pagination or Media Count:
The report investigates some of the physical aspects of the surf zone with random seas. The statistics of wave height distributions are investigated for the surf zone over gentle sloping beaches. Longshore currents and wave set-up due to random seas are computed and compared with results for periodic waves. The mathematical stability of steady longshore currents on plane beaches is investigated and it is found that such solutions are unstable. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Civil Engineering