Spectral Measurements of Water Particle Velocities under Waves.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CALIF
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Simultaneous measurements of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and water particle velocities were made using a wave staff and an electromagnetic current meter. Measurements were made at three elevations in 18 meters of water at an open ocean site during moderate wave and wind conditions. Coherence of the wave height and orbital velocities was computed to be greater than 0.90 through the range of significant energy-density between 0.05 and 0.22 Hertz. This range contained greater than 90 percent of the total spectral energy-density which indicated that the water particle velocities were almost totally wave-induced. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography