Determination of the Deep Water Arrival Direction of Ocean Swell at a Coastal Station.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CALIF
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Three previously unpublished methods for empirically determining deep-water swell direction were examined in this work triangulation using two widely separated wave sensors, intersection using weather maps and a single wave sensor, and swell point-source estimation from weather maps. The primary objective of each method was to identify a single point source of the swell train produced in an approaching cyclonic storm. Method 1 was not adequately tested, but results as applied to swell from one storm were favorable. Methods 2 and 3, applied to five selected North Pacific storms, gave close agreement on the swell origin time 15 minutes to 6 hours and source point location 27 to 362 nautical miles, and on swell arrival direction at Monterey, California 0.1 to 5.3 degrees. Methods 1 and 2 give deep-water directions for swell trains that have already arrived, while Method 3 is a prediction method. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography