The Propagation of Large Amplitude Tsunamis Across a Basin of Changing Depth: Off-Shore Behavior.
LEHIGH UNIV BETHLEHEM PA CENTER FOR THE APPLICATION OF MATHEMATICS
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A theory is presented which describes the propagation of large amplitude Tsunamis across a basin of variable depth in the limit when this depth is varying slowly on a scale defined by the wavelength. In part I only the off-shore behavior is considered, in part II some features of the final run up are described. The technique used is to regard the wave as a slowly modulated simple wave with a slowly changing Riemann invariant. One of the most significant results is that over distances where the effect of depth variation modulates the amplitude of the wave, but does not disperse it, the variations of the amplitudes of the flow variables, such as maximum surface elevation, can be calculated as functions of the undisturbed depth without knowing how this depth varies in distance and without knowing the wave profile. These variations are fully calculated. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography