Accession Number:

AD0729002

Title:

Observations of Normal Pressure on Wind-Generated Sea Waves. Volume I,

Descriptive Note:

Corporate Author:

BRITISH COLUMBIA UNIV VANCOUVER INST OF OCEANOGRAPHY

Personal Author(s):

Report Date:

1969-08-01

Pagination or Media Count:

200.0

Abstract:

A measurement system was designed and built which consists of a capacitance wire wave sensor on which a buoy carrying a pressure sensor slides vertically. This was used to obtain simultaneous quasi-Eulerian measurements of waves and the normal pressures on their surface. Pressure power spectra from all 6 runs appear to consist of a basic spectrum similar to that observed over land, on which is superimposed a wave-induced hump which at low wave frequencies is simply the weight of air above the surface. At frequencies near the wave peak phases shifted from the -180 degrees at lower frequencies by an amount which exceeds values predicted from Miles theory by 20 degrees. Spectra of the fluxes of energy and momentum from wind to waves are sharply peaked at a frequency at or usually slightly higher than the wave peak in contrast to the rather broad stress spectrum measured not far above the waves. Energy must be transferred to the lowest wave frequencies by a mechanism within the wave field itself. Author

Subject Categories:

  • Meteorology
  • Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
  • Test Facilities, Equipment and Methods

Distribution Statement:

APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE