OBSERVATIONS OF PARTICLE MOTIONS IN OCEAN WAVES. VOLUME II. APPENDICES.
NAVAL UNDERWATER WEAPONS RESEARCH AND ENGINEERING STATION NEWPORT R I
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Ducted impeller wave meters were suspended from the Buzzards Bay Entrance Light Station to measure particle motions in wind waves at various depths beneath the free surface. The motions recorded display quasisinusoidal oscillations having an approximate 90 degrees phase shift between the horizontal and vertical velocity components that lie normal to the wave crests. The wave kinetic energy associated with the variances in the wave motions shows a strong depth attenuation, but this attenuation is not as great as the exponential energy decrease exhibited by a classical trochoidal wave. Integrals of the wave kinetic energy contained in the water column were approximately equal to the estimated potential energy of the waves. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography