OBSERVATIONS OF PARTICLE MOTIONS IN OCEAN WAVES.
NAVAL UNDERWATER WEAPONS RESEARCH AND ENGINEERING STATION NEWPORT R I
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Little is known of how wind stress is imparted to the sea surface and how this stress generates both waves and ocean currents. Most wave studies have concentrated upon measuring free surface fluctuations and have avoided the examination of the dynamic regime beneath the free surface of the waves. The work reported herein deals with making direct Eulerian measurements of the complex motions within the wave regime. A historical review and a discussion of the problems of measuring turbulent and oscillatory motions are presented. The development of wave meter instrumentation is discussed. Various calibration techniques were used, including a wind tunnel, and rotating boom and towing tank systems. The methods of data processing, using high speed digital computers, are presented. The study provides evidence that the complex motions at the sea surface can and should be measured. With the relatively crude instrumentation, measurements were obtained which provided meaningful information on the momentum and energy transfer within the sea surface layer. Improvement of instruments and techniques can only result in a better understanding of the energetics of the ocean surface layer. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography