THE CHANGE IN WAVE ELEMENTS UPON ENTERING SHALLOW WATER,
JOHNS HOPKINS UNIV SILVER SPRING MD APPLIED PHYSICS LAB
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The problem of the change in wave elements as they enter shallow water is considered in this paper. The basic factors affecting the change in such wave elements are the bottom friction of liquid particles as well as the irreversible process of wave decay due to the deformation of the wave shape. Two particular cases are considered 1 T const and 2 hwavelength const. The equation of the coastal slope profile is given in the form x aH to the nth power.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography