MODIFICATION OF WAVE SPECTRA ON THE CONTINENTAL SHELF AND IN THE SURF ZONE.
NATIONAL ENGINEERING SCIENCE CO MCLEAN VA
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A study was made to increase the state of the art on wave forecasting over the continental shelf, in shallow water, and in the surf zone. The study includes investigations of certain dynamic actions such as breaking waves and currents which affect the rate of littoral drift storm surge and flooding, which result in an increase in total water depth, thereby permitting larger breaking waves to occur closer to the shoreline. Theory, field data, and analytical methods are required for the successful completion of the study. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography