THEORY OF OCEAN WAVES.
NAVAL OCEANOGRAPHIC OFFICE WASHINGTON D C
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The paper discusses the experiments that were carried out in the storm basin of the Marine Hydrographical Institute with a view to determining new kinematic aspects of two-dimensional sea waves which affect the form of wave profile. Accordingly, new equations defining the profile of waves better than the known trochoidal equations are introduced, the causes for the sharpening of wave crests are elucidated, and the pulsation of drift current, which creates foamy crests in deep seas is determined. The theory of sea waves makes it possible to reanalyze the results of measurements of extremely high ocean waves. On the basis of improved instrumental measurements and the new theory of the wind field in the ocean, more accurate values for the coefficients of turbulent kinematic viscosity are found. In conclusion, the pattern of wave progression on the continental shoal is mathematically defined.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography