CHANGES IN THE COMPONENTS OF WAVES WHEN REACHING SHALLOW WATER.
NAVAL OCEANOGRAPHIC OFFICE WASHINGTON D C
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The study discusses changes in wave components as they reach shallow water. The friction of water particles against bottom and the irreversible process of the disintegration of waves resulting from the deformation of their shape are considered as the main factors that affect the changes in the components of waves as they reach shallow water. Two cases are discussed 1 Tconst. and 2 hlambdaconst. The chosen equation of the profile of the coastal slope is xa H to the nth power. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Fluid Mechanics