ON THE BREAKING OF WAVES ARRIVING AT AN ANGLE TO THE SHORE.
NATIONAL ENGINEERING SCIENCE CO PASADENA CALIF
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By using the method of conservation of energy flux between wave orthogonals, the breaking wave characteristics are obtained for waves traveling obliquely to the bottom contours of a straight shoreline. The results of the calculations are presented in the form of nomographs by using the linear and third order irrotational gravity wave theories. Three different breaking criteria are used in these calculations. In particular, a new breaking criterion is proposed for waves breaking on a gentle slope. Some calculations are also performed at the fifth order of approximation and the results compared with the linear and third order cases. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Fluid Mechanics