REFRACTION OF DISPERSIVE WAVES ON A BEACH.
NAVAL CIVIL ENGINEERING LAB PORT HUENEME CALIF
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Refraction of dispersive type waves on a beach is predicted adequately by use of Snells Law. Amplitudes of the refracted waves on a beach are predicted adequately by a modified form of Greens Law when the amplitude at one point 7 e.g., the toe of the beach, is known. Author