GRAVITY WAVES ON BOTTOM SLOPES AND WAVE RUNUP.
NATIONAL ENGINEERING SCIENCE CO PASADENA CALIF
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A set of theories, computing methods and results for the propagation of explosion generated waves on a slope and wave runup are presented. Periodic gravity waves on a gentle slope are calculated, using a third order of approximation by assuming the conservation of energy flux. An adaption of a linear theory based on conformal mapping for studying the wave reflection due to the continental slope is presented. A critical analysis of numerical methods for studying gravity waves on a gentle slope is carried out. A computer program for studying spilling breakers and fully developed bores on a beach by the method of characteristics has been developed and the corresponding results are presented. A numerical method for studying the transition from a bore into a rarefaction wave with bottom friction and the surge on a dry bed is proposed. Author