Accession Number:

AD0213613

Title:

ON THE BREAKING OF WATER WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE ON A SLOPING BEACH,

Descriptive Note:

Corporate Author:

HARVARD UNIV CAMBRIDGE MA DIV OF ENGINEERING AND APPLIED PHYSICS

Personal Author(s):

Report Date:

1958-01-06

Pagination or Media Count:

5.0

Abstract:

In recent paper Carrier Greenspan showed that, within the framework of the non-linear shallow-water theory, there exist waves which do not break as they climb a sloping beach. The formation of a shock or bore is dependent on a variety of factors wave shape, particle velocity and, as yet, no general criteria for breaking have been found. Waves are considered which propagate shoreward into quiescent water it is shown that any compressive wave a wave of positive amplitude which has a non-zero slope at the wave-front eventually breaks before reaching the coastline. In fact, an explicit relation is obtained between the initial conditions and the position where breaking occurs. Author

Subject Categories:

Distribution Statement:

APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE