WAVE, LONGSHORE CURRENT, AND BEACH PROFILE RECORDS FOR SANTA MARGARITA RIVER BEACH, OCEANSIDE, CALIFORNIA, 1949
CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY WAVE RESEARCH LAB
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A table is included which gives the times that the deep water wave heights, the average periods, the wave steepnesses, and the breaker heights and directions were within certain ranges of values. Unrefracted deep-water heights were rarely above 4 ft and the breakers rarely above 6 ft. Most of the predominant waves were from a southerly direction. The direction of longshore movement generally corresponded to the direction of the primary train of breakers. Reach profiles are presented, measured to a depth of about 25 ft below mean lower low water. The width of the beam increasing during the summer months and decreased during the winter months. The series of offshore profiles was more consistent than was the series of onshore profiles. The total vertical variation at any distance offshore was always less than plus or minus 4 ft from the mean. The greatest wave steepness measured was about 0.008, and it was seldom above 0. 003.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography