Accession Number:

AD0006549

Title:

THE MECHANICS OF DEEP WATER, SHALLOW WATER, AND BREAKING WAVES

Descriptive Note:

Corporate Author:

CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY WAVE RESEARCH LAB

Personal Author(s):

• Morison, Jack R.
• Crooke, R. C.

Report Date:

1953-02-01

Pagination or Media Count:

22.0

Abstract:

Experimental data were obtained for the wave-surface time history, the horizontal and vertical particle velocities, and the particle orbits of deep and shallow water and breaking waves. Comparisons with the Stokes and other wave theories showed good agreement for deep water conditions. The theories were not applicable to shallow water conditions. The theories were not applicable to shallow water conditions in which wave water depthwave length values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have an appreciable steepness.

Descriptors:

• *OCEAN WAVES
• EXPERIMENTAL DATA
• THEORY
• DEEP WATER
• PARTICLES
• VERTICAL ORIENTATION
• HORIZONTAL ORIENTATION
• VELOCITY
• SHALLOW WATER

Subject Categories:

• Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement:

APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE