FORMS OF EQUILIBRIUM OF COASTS WITH A LITTORAL DRIFT - SERIES 3, ISSUE 347
CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY WAVE RESEARCHLAB
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Coastal features where a littoral drift exists are explained by the solution of the differential equation k x s A sinalpha sub o, where k is a constant, s is the length along the coast, A is the wave effect, and alpha sub o is the deepwater angle of the waves. Other beach forms under less idealized conditions may be explained from a similar relation. Different types of marine forelands can be explained as a result of refraction and diffraction in connection with a lowering of the steepness ratio of the waves.
- Geology, Geochemistry and Mineralogy
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography