STUDY OF RELATIONSHIP OF SWELL AND BREAKER CHARACTERISTICS AND THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN SHOALING WATER - SERIES 29, ISSUE 54
CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY WAVE RESEARCHLAB
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The relation between off-shore swells and breakers on a beach was studied in order to formulate a method for predicting relatively calm surf. Such information could be used together with off-shore wave recorder readings to direct landing craft to arrive at beaches at the intermittent intervals of relatively low surf. Theoretical studies of the dispersive properties of ocean waves were compared with laboratory experiments performed in a 1-ft-wide, 60-ft- long, 3-ft-deep wave channel results are presented graphically. The linear least-squares prediction of wave transformation, based on the interpretation of 2 time histories as the components of a 2-dimensional discrete stationary random process, yields moderately accurate results over limited times and distances. Modifications of this technique are discussed which could extend its application.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography