Accession Number : AD0006549


Title :   THE MECHANICS OF DEEP WATER, SHALLOW WATER, AND BREAKING WAVES


Corporate Author : CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY WAVE RESEARCH LAB


Personal Author(s) : Morison, Jack R ; Crooke, R C


Full Text : https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/006549.pdf


Report Date : Feb 1953


Pagination or Media Count : 22


Abstract : Experimental data were obtained for the wave-surface time history, the horizontal and vertical particle velocities, and the particle orbits of deep and shallow water and breaking waves. Comparisons with the Stokes and other wave theories showed good agreement for deep water conditions. The theories were not applicable to shallow water conditions. The theories were not applicable to shallow water conditions in which wave water depth/wave length values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have an appreciable steepness.


Descriptors :   *OCEAN WAVES , EXPERIMENTAL DATA , THEORY , DEEP WATER , PARTICLES , VERTICAL ORIENTATION , HORIZONTAL ORIENTATION , VELOCITY , SHALLOW WATER


Subject Categories : Fluid Mechanics


Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE